• Balance - The contribution of each carburetor to the total output of the engine, and most important and noticeable at idle.
• Air Screw - Mixture adjustment, well, non-adjustment. Set to 1 and a half to 2 turns out and leave it. Mine are at two...
• Float Level - 21mm, do I need to say anything more here?

I did this a few months ago before I had my digital camera and before taking the bike apart. Sorry, no pictures. If you can take some when you work on your carbs, send them my way, I'll add them (and give you credit!)

Taking apart the carbs... Hmmm... Lots of parts. Make sure you have a clear diagram of how they go together. My Clymer manual does a pretty good job here. I did one at a time so that I didn't mix parts. I used some carb cleaner and a fine wire to clean out each and every hole I could find. I never removed the throttle valve, I didn't see a need to. I replaced all of the rubber in the carbs, buy the four kits from the dealer. They're expensive ($17.00 each or so,) but a leak internal to the carbs will cause your bike not to run like you want it to. If you have a leak around the float valve seat, why did you even take the time to adjust the float, fuel will just run around the seat anyways. Clean up the outside as you see fit.

Then put them back together, in the right order. Make sure that the main just is fully seated in the hole where it goes. It may be difficult with the new o-ring, but it will fit. Make sure the pin that holds the throttle return spring is in place with the spring attached and re-assemble the bank of carbs. Pretty easy. Heck, I did it.

Carb Removal, Cleaning, and Re-installation

Now, for each carb:
Remove the bowl.
Remove the spring holding the main jet in place (the spring will most likely just fall free.)
Remove the main jet.
Remove the pivot pin holding the float in place. Be careful with the float, don't bend it at all.
Remove the float valve, it should just fall out.
Ensure that the little spring that pushes the pintle out works, and is not sticky at all. If it sticks, soak it until it moves freely, then soak it some more.
Remove the phillips screw holding the float valve seat in place.
Remove the float valve seat.
Remove the slow jet.
Remove the air screw and spring.
Remove the carb top cover.
Loosen the screw that attaches the link arm (the arm inside the carb that is near horizontal and raises the slide.)
Slide the shaft that moves the link arm out. You'll have to bend back the lockplate/tongued washer to remove this.
Remove the throttle valve (piston with the pin on the end.)
Remove the needle jet. It should push out the bottom of the carb, almost fall out.
There is no need (as far as I can tell) to disassemble the throttle valve, throttle shaft, and link arm.
Now, go back and carefully clean each part.
Check EVERY hold and make sure it is clear, I use a real thin strand of copper wire to do this.
Clean everything again with carb cleaner.
Get the outside of the carbs looking how you want.
Now, get a seal kit and replace EVERY stinking piece of rubber inside. Any internal leak will goof up the mixture settings and make the carb not perform.

Now, carefully re-assemble the carb in the reverse order. Ensure that the main jet seats fully, you will probably have to lubricate the seal on the main jet to get it to seat fully.
Before putting on the float bowl, check the float height setting. Do this by measuring the distance from the base of the carb/bowl seal interface to the lowest point on the float. You say the float moves up and down... Do it with the little tang on the float just touching, but not compressing the pintle on the float valve. 21mm is correct for the stock set up. If you need to adjust it, bend that little tang up or down, not much, very very little. Be as accurate as you can be.
Now, to put the bowl on, hold the carb upside down, put the main jet and spring in place, and set the bowl on top with the o-ring in place. Then insert the 4 bowl screws and tighten down. the bowl should sit up no more than 1/4\" before tightening the screws, otherwise, the main jet is not properly seated or something is wrong. The spring just applies a little preload to hold the main jet in place.
Now, do the other 3 carbs.

Then, to reassemble, loosly connect everything, find the barrel that the throttle return spring goes around, put the fuel lines between the carbs, and insert the 8 screws through the frames and attach one carb at a time, connecting the throttle arms, fuel lines, choke linkage, fuel tubes, etc... as it all comes together, tighen everthing up, make sure it all goes together without any binding or having to pull parts together with the screws.
Set the air screws to 1-1/2 to 2 turns out from full in. Mine are at two turns and yielded very nice response, I haven't tried 1-1/2 yet, but I don't think I need to, unless someone can tell me why further in is better.
Now, make sure the choke mechanism works.
Now, open the choke, and find some way to hold the 4 carbs horizontal.
Put a light, or white paper with a brite light on it and adjust the throttle valve heights to match. Easiest way is to tighten down one of the carbs synchro adjuster screws and locknuts. Then adjust the idle adjustment screw until that carb had just a hair of light showing through. Now, adjust the other three carbs to show the same amount of light. It takes time, but if done right, when you use your manometers to fine tune it, you might not even have to adjust anything. I haven't had a chance to check mine with the manometers, but the smooooooooth idle leads me to believe that I am pretty dang close.
Now, put the carbs back on the bike, reverse order of how they were removed. Go out and enjoy new found power!

Air Screws... I set mine at 2 turns out. Engine runs great, nice and peppy. Any reason to go to 1.5, not that I know of. If you have one, let me know.

When I was done cleaning them and replacing all the rubber, the bike found a lot of new power. I haven't, and haven't seen a need to, go and try to adjust anything from how the Clymer book said to set them up. I wish I had done this cleaning sooner. The bike now doesn't have any dead spots, is very peppy right from idle, and will still pull the "ton" (100 mph.)